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RESOLVED - Vario-Roof Not Closing (but does from approx. 1/3rd up)

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378 views 25 replies 7 participants last post by  Stromboli  
R
#1 · (Edited)
Resolved - issue was some sheared off plastic from one of the windshield pins that was stuck in the right-side windshield locking latch, causing it to press down constantly on the S69/1 microswitch regardless of roof status. Diagnostic originally showed conflict between S69/11 and S69/1.

Hi everyone,

Another issue with the roof that is hopefully related. Everything has been put back together relating to the cylinder repair but the roof no longer closes automatically. The Closing Sequence does not initiate following the roof being fully retracted.
  1. The roof opens fine (ie Opening Sequence works as normal).
  2. I have double checked that all of the wiring is plugged in, bypass screw tightened, luggage divider up etc.
  3. The switch flashes red slowly.
  4. No noise is made when pressing the button forward to initiate the Closing Sequence.
  5. There are no beeping sounds when driving which indicate a roof issue.
The roof switch worked completely fine before the front lock cylinder repair, except for the time before the repair where it also got stuck during the Closing Sequence - however I assume this was because the hydraulic fluid was very low. I have double checked that all of the wiring is back in place and that nothing has come loose.

Looking at the Vario-Roof diagnostic manual, it is stuck from Stage 0, but when I manually lift up the roof approx. 1/3rd up, I can then push forward on the switch and the roof closes (approx. Stage 2.5 of the Closing Sequence). The rear triangular windows and main windows also come up, so the sequence completes.

See below for picture; slightly above this point is where the roof can close with the switch. The pictured roof positioning and lower = Closing Sequence doesn't activate.

I have booked the car with a Mercedes specialist for repair next week, but just checking if anyone on here has anything obvious to mention I've potentially overlooked, or anything that may be worth trying without diagnostic or specialist tools? Thank you.

Car Convertible Car door Mercedes-Benz Luxury vehicle


----PREVIOUS ISSUE NOW RESOLVED----
Hi all,

Well I'm only a few weeks into ownership and I found recently that the front lock cylinder seal had degraded and was leaking. Replaced it with a new O-ring, topped up the fluid. Pressed the roof switch and... slow flashing red light. I've had to manually open and close the roof on multiple occasions, so I'm assuming that there's a latch that hasn't been properly fastened.

I was going to retract the roof completely then try the switch again, however the roof will not budge at all. I've removed the mechanism harness screws for the pictures. No matter the position I move the latches to, they don't want to slide out.

Any help here to help me get the roof off would be appreciated. Have attached pictures - let me know if any more needed. Thanks.
Automotive Exterior Car door Glass Windshield Hood
Carbon fibers Automotive Carrying Rack Railing Windscreen wiper
Windscreen wiper Car door
Automotive Carrying Rack Railing Windscreen wiper Carbon fibers
Windscreen wiper Glass Windshield Car door Railing
Windscreen wiper Windshield Car door Carbon fibers Electrical cable
 

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R
#6 · (Edited)
NEW ISSUE

Hi everyone,

Another issue with the roof that is hopefully related. Everything has been put back together relating to the cylinder repair but the roof no longer closes automatically.
  1. The roof opens fine (ie Opening Sequence works as normal).
  2. I have double checked that all of the wiring is plugged in, bypass screw tightened, luggage divider up etc.
  3. The switch flashes red slowly.
  4. No noise is made when pressing the button forward to initiate the Closing Sequence.
The roof switch worked completely fine before the front lock cylinder repair, except for the time before the repair where it also got stuck during the Closing Sequence - however I assume this was because the hydraulic fluid was very low.

Looking at the Vario-Roof diagnostic manual, it is stuck from Stage 0, but when I manually lift up the roof approx. 1/3rd up, I can then push forward on the switch and the roof closes (approx. Stage 2.5 of the Closing Sequence). The rear triangular windows and main windows also come up, so the sequence completes.

See below for picture; slightly above this point is where the roof can close with the switch. The pictured roof positioning and lower = Closing Sequence doesn't activate.

I have booked the car with a Mercedes specialist for repair next week, but just checking if anyone on here has anything obvious to mention I've potentially overlooked, or anything that may be worth trying without diagnostic or specialist tools? Thank you.
 

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#9 ·
I can give you only some hints:

Since your roof is opening correctly, you can rule out a lot of switches.

The closing procedure is no different, but it relies on S69/11, the roof-in-the-trunk switch. The switch is located by the right security belt (where passenger's shoulder is). Check its wiring.

Another issue might be a damaged wiring harness located where the B pillar is in normal cars:

Automotive Exterior Car door Windscreen wiper Glass Automotive Mirror


Why do I presume this? When the roof straightens by your manual operation, the harness is less bent and continuity is given again. When the roof is in the trunk, that location is heavily bent => connectivity of broken wires is gone.

HTH
 
R
#11 ·
Thanks. I think the s69/11 switch is the likely issue here.

Interesting about the wiring harness though... I've since put the trim back on, but when it was off and the roof was closed, there was a cable protruding into the rear window which aligns with the area you've highlighted.

I'll mention these to the MB specialist... hopefully not too costly of a repair either way.
 
R
#12 · (Edited)
Just an update here. Initially, the specialist was pretty confused, particularly because the roof almost works normally. When plugged into the diagnostic tool S69/1 and S69/11 were both showing faults, but both switches seemed to be working. I asked them to check the roof wiring as indicated by Stromboli and all looked fine.

However, it was discovered that the roof control unit a few corroded pins due to fluid ingress, which is the likely cause of the issue, but they're not 100%. The part is on backorder from MB, so I've bought a working unit online for approx. $40 and I'm going back next week with it for them to fit. Fingers crossed it solves the issue. The water ducts seem to be pretty clogged, especially the front ducts which are full of leaves etc. Have cleared the back ones but not the front yet. (There's also, of course, a chance that the leaking hydraulic fluid seeped into there as well, but the corrosion from what I could see with a quick glance looked like green oxidisation. So likely to be water ingress.)

Will update again with hopefully the news that a new control unit has solved the issue.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Riviera122 said:
Just an update here. Initially, the specialist was pretty confused, particularly because the roof almost works normally. They checked every switch and all were functioning correctly, and confirmed all wiring was reseated successfully following removal of the right side trim.

However, it was discovered that the roof control unit has some corroded pins due to fluid ingress, which is the likely cause of the issue, but they're not 100%. The part is on backorder from MB, so I've bought a working unit online for approx. $40 and I'm going back next week with it for them to fit. Fingers crossed it solves the issue. The water ducts seem to be pretty clogged, especially the front ducts which are full of leaves etc. Have cleared the back ones but not the front yet. There's also of course a chance that the leaking hydraulic fluid seeped into there as well.

Will update again with hopefully the news that a new control unit has solved the issue.
Click to expand...
I think you should check the wiring in the area where @Stromboli indicates. It's a common known issue and typical for your problem. The wiring is routed at the very right side of the roof and bends between the roof and the B-pillar. The control unit wouldn't "act up" like that if it was defective. The roof would then normally not move at all.
 
#16 ·
Although a 171 diy, this explains.
www.slkworld.com

Boot/Trunk wiring fixed

boot wiring fixed We'll that was a cold day spent outside .. but pleased with the results. First I found an old repair that had failed as they left the joint at the bend point of the wire! So I then cut the old wiring back and made new joints protected with heat-shrink and new protective...
www.slkworld.com www.slkworld.com
 
R
#17 · (Edited)
Another update - the roof control unit, despite being heavily corroded was not causing the roof control issues, so that has been ruled out as causing my issue.

The service centre now wants to book in a 'long diagnostic session' with the car, where they basically track and test all of the wiring and determine what is causing the roof not to close from there. This can apparently take all day.

I want to double check the S69/11 wiring harness myself as mentioned by @Stromboli, however I'm struggling to locate where it is in the car (very much a car and DIY novice).

  • I have a RHD vehicle.
  • The roof headliner has been removed.
  • The driver's (aka right) side trim has been removed, but the passenger (aka left) side trim is still in place.

If someone could help me pinpoint where exactly the wiring harness can be located at the point where the wires may be fraying, either from sat inside the vehicle looking upwards or from side-ways on with the roof retracted approx. 1/4th the way down, it would be very appreciated.

Thanks.
 
#18 ·
Sorry, I don't know if it's mirrored in RHD cars. But I guess it's not because the front lock cylinder hose also remains routed on the right side of the roof in RHDs. it seems that parts of the roof routing remain the same among RHD, LHD.

So look on driver's side (RHD) right behind your right shoulder. There is a cover which you can open by its screws (torx, IIRC). Then you'll see the switch.
 
#19 · (Edited)
On my RHD SLK230:
With trunk open, look up under the main cylinder on the right side, you should see the S69/11 switch. Make sure the switch is fully seated into the mount. If it looks like it is securely seated, push the lever in that operates the switch to see if it goes in and returns.
Machine Carbon fibers Nickel


Photo of tabs that lock the switch into place. The tabs can be easily broken if not removed correctly.


Image


The S69/11 switch has to be removed to remove the main cylinder.
Carbon fibers Car seat


Image


N10-3 pinout info
Photograph White Font Screenshot Document
 
R
#23 ·
Well i’ve removed the sheaths around the bend points and all the wiring looks completely fine. Also removed the trim behind the driver’s seat itself and the wiring looks fine there also. Switch is clicking when pressed and wiring connector is socketed firmly into it, so who knows what’s going on.

Looks like I’ll have to stump up for the long diagnostic session to get to the bottom of what’s going on, as it seems to have us all beat.
 
R
#24 ·
Well, after weeks of effort and energy spent trying to work on this, I have resolved the issue.

I discovered a thread on here earlier today which mentioned the same problem I had: a conflict between S69/1 and S69/11. They mentioned that some of the plastic rod on the roof had sheared off and got stuck in the latch. Guess who was also afflicted with the same...

I thought it wasn't an issue because it has been stuck in there for a while and didn't affect operation of the roof switch - I just thought it pushed against the switch once the remaining plastic nub attached to the windshield pushed it in when closing the roof. However the sheared off plastic had began to push down constantly on the S69/1 switch regardless of the roof status, obviously causing a conflict.

When removing the sheared plastic nub from its socket on the latch, I heard a click from the S69/1 microswitch and instantly had a good feeling that it might be the cause of the issue, and it was. The roof now works perfectly and I've saved hundreds by no longer having to visit the Mercedes specialist for that all-day diagnostic that was booked in.

Now to find a replacement nub, add fresh wiring harness, put everything back together and continue on this journey...
 

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