The thread was disabled replies/comments but I am having the same issue so i wanted to see if anyone actually figured this out.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Junster
that poster has not been here in almost 3 years so unlikely he will respond SO
Post exactly what issues YOU are having and what YOU have tried to resolve it
Post exactly what issues YOU are having and what YOU have tried to resolve it
Why are you replacing the fuse with a higher rated one? Never do that!
Check the license plate lamps and their wiring. The wires go up on the left side of the trunk lid (IIRC).
Check the license plate lamps and their wiring. The wires go up on the left side of the trunk lid (IIRC).
And the reason not to go for a higher amp fuse…
The fuse is designed to blow if there is an electrical problem and we will know where the break is ie the fuse.
A higher fuse can mean an electrical short in somewhere that is hard to find, may lead to damage and even fire.
A get you home (with caution) fix only.
Better to use a fuse of equal value from a system you can do without until home, if you don’t carry spares.
The fuse is designed to blow if there is an electrical problem and we will know where the break is ie the fuse.
A higher fuse can mean an electrical short in somewhere that is hard to find, may lead to damage and even fire.
A get you home (with caution) fix only.
Better to use a fuse of equal value from a system you can do without until home, if you don’t carry spares.
Actually, fuses do TWO things: Firstly, they protect the wiring, which is the reason not to never short circuit them ("lets use a nail as a fuse-repair"), secondly, they sometimes protect the devices they feed. Sometimes, this can be used to find the fault. Here, the behaviour points towards ... you guessed it, the radio and everything below...
The usual fault finding process is to disconnect all consumers that doesn,t work, and (armed with a suitable number of of correct fuses) reconnect them, one at a time. My best guess: If the radio is a aftermarket installation or the original has been modified, look there first.
The usual fault finding process is to disconnect all consumers that doesn,t work, and (armed with a suitable number of of correct fuses) reconnect them, one at a time. My best guess: If the radio is a aftermarket installation or the original has been modified, look there first.
Allow me to overstate the obvious .... sounds like you have a short! Here is a list of what A.I. sez is on that circuit. Good luck!
If you pulled this fuse from the small fuse panel located on the side of the dashboard (accessible only when you open the driver's door), Fuse 11 (7.5A) controls your interior night-time illumination network. [1]
If this fuse blows, you lose the backlighting to almost every switch in the cabin. It controls the following appliances and components: [1]
If you pulled this fuse from the small fuse panel located on the side of the dashboard (accessible only when you open the driver's door), Fuse 11 (7.5A) controls your interior night-time illumination network. [1]
If this fuse blows, you lose the backlighting to almost every switch in the cabin. It controls the following appliances and components: [1]
- Instrument Cluster Backlighting: The illumination for the main gauge faces (speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauges).
- Center Console Upper Switches: Backlighting for the Hazard light switch, heated seat buttons, and the tow-away/alarm disable buttons.
- Climate Control Unit Backlighting: The lights behind your A/C fan speed, temperature dials, and air direction selectors.
- Lower Center Console Switches: Illumination for the power window switches, mirror adjustment pad, and the convertible top roof control switch.
- Gear Selector Illumination: The light displaying P-R-N-D next to the shifter (on automatic models).
- Ashtray Illumination Light
Are you aware the wiring diagrams are here?: https://www.slkworld.com/threads/wiring-diagrams-for-slk320-230-fuse-locations-for-slk320.558687/
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