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Vario roof question

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156 views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  thesharkjohn868  
#1 ·
Hi folks,
My front roof cylinder has failed and developed a leak. R170 Slk230 year 2000.
I have ordered a repair kit and am going to have a go repairing it but looking at possible replacements I keep seeing them advertised as front left pax side? Mine is slightly right of centre and is more towards the drivers side and there is only one? Am I missing something please?
Thanks in advance.
 
#4 ·
Silk R170 SLK230 year 2000.
Hi everyone,
I am currently in the middle of trying to fix my roof! I have already replaced the front lift cylinder, (no easy feat when the roof won’t open!) also freed up the rear lift cylinders which now work correctly. Adjusted the front locking tension wires which were very slack. However on testing it previously I heard a loud thud/bang in the area of the rns pillar. I suspect that the front to rear cable has snapped but not sure. The roof will not open manually because it will not bend at the point above the rear screen. My question is: how do I release the bending hinges and how/where do I gain access to check if the hinge release cable is snapped? Also I noticed 2 square levers on either side inside the boot near the hinges, can anyone enlighten me as to what they do? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I am slowly falling out of love with my wife’s SLK!
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the reply and I am aware of these boot release mechanisms I was asking though about the hinge joint between top of the rear window and roof as this is rigid and will not bend or move?
 
E
#9 ·
You know how pocket knifes have a safety mechanism to keep the knife open and rigid? Well, the two hinges between your roof and your rear window (above your outboard shoulder) each have a similar safety. During normal "roof closed" driving these hinges must remain rigid (in case of a rollover accident).


These safety mechanisms are operated by two cables. When the rotary latches turn clockwise to unlatch, at the end of the arc they pull the two cables tight to release the safeties. If they don't, the roof remains rigid and will only move back a centimeter or two from the windshield.


If you're opening the roof manually and it won't push back past the first few centimeters, try giving the latch a little extra clockwise torque, watch for movement in the safeties, and then see if you can push the roof back.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for all your help and advice folks it really is very much appreciated. I am not quite sure how but I got the roof open which enabled me to route the front lift cylinder hydraulic lines correctly near the boot and after adjusting the front locking mechanism and reattching the small spring on the folding piece of the tonneau cover near the boot I now have a fully working roof! Whilst in bits I fully Gummi Pfledged all the rubbers and white silicon greased all the moving parts. The only part I am not 100% happy with is the tonneau cover when the roof is down is uneven (see pictures) Does anyone have any hints, help or advice on how to adjust this?
Thanks again !
 

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#13 ·
Thanks for that info and I will look at them. Apologies I just noticed that I hadn't acknowledged your reply which is quite rude of me! Sorry
 
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