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Mercedes SLK32 AMG (R170) fluids and parts list

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9.2K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  nchelnik  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi fellow members! My project was to replace all fluids in SLK 32AMG R170. I've done extensive research looking for proper liquids and part numbers and just want to share my findings with you so you can save yourself some time ;), especially since this car has a lot of fluids! I think most fluids will apply to other R170 models (except for engine oil and maybe supercharger oil). But here's the breakdown of what I used specifically for 32AMG model.

The data as of 2024:
1) Engine oil - Mobile 1 0W-40 or 5W-40. Capacity is ~8 quarts. The 0W-40 is for colder climates (most likely used in northern states), and 5W-40 is for warmer states. Here in Texas I opted for 0W-40 since I got a good deal on a 12qt box from local Walmart :)

2) Convertible Top Hydraulic oil - 000-989-91-03-09. Alternative is Febi Bilstein 02615. Haven't changed that yet on current car so not sure what the actual capacity is but there's a fill mark on the plastic reservoir attached to a roof pump. I think last time I did it on my SLK 230 when I took the pump out it was for sure less than quart since I still have left overs.

3) Supercharger oil - You can get overpriced MB 000-989-62-01-10 quart or get the latest 4th generation of Mobil Jet Oil 387. I used 3rd generation - Mobil Jet Oil 254. The second (older generation) is Mobil Jet Oil II and is probably hard to find now or may have expired shelf life. You can either get a metal quart can or buy a kit with syringe from Ebay (which is what I did). Capacity is ~150ml. Basically the car needs to be level and you fill up to the fill hole until it starts coming out. Similar to rear axle fluid - up to the fill hole.
See this DIY thread: How to - SLK32 AMG Supercharger oil change

4) Rear axle fluid (also known as hypoid gear oil). MB 001-989-33-03-09 for a quart. Alternative is Febi Bilstein 48785 (which is what I used). It's 75W-85. On my previous SLK 230 I used 'Mobil 1 104361-UNIT 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube' and this is I think what most people use in other passenger cars. Capacity - up to the fill hole until it starts coming out. ~1.3 quarts. It really took me a great deal of time and research to find correct OEM fluid specs. That 75W-85 is what my 2.7 Ecoboost F-150 uses as well. And honestly it looked and smelled the same to this Febi fluid. The color was identical too.
See this DIY thread: SLK R170 (32 AMG) Rear Differential Fluid change

5) Power Steering oil - Q-1-46-0002. Or Febi Bilstein 08972. I did a full flush and replaced my power steering reservoir (000-460-01-83) at the same time. You will need to get 2 quarts to do a full flush.
See this DIY thread: DIY power steering flush(SLK R170)

6) Transmission oil - 001-989-68-03-18. Also there's Febi Bilstein 29449, or Shell ATF 134. I used Shell ATF 134. I did a full flush (not just the pan drop) and used 18 quarts (to make sure I got rid of all of the old fluid out) :)
See this DIY thread: Transmission fluid change
and this post for a link to the video: Mercedes transmission fluid and filter change

7) Brake fluid - 000-989-56-05-09-0109. Or Febi Bilstein 23930. One quart should be enough to do full flush.

8) Coolant - Zerex G-48. This one has blue color and is what I currently have and will use that to change it. Capacity per owner’s manual - approx. 15.3 US qt (14.5 liters). I was able to drain about 2 gallons via drain plug.

9) Windshield cleaning agent: 000-986-20-00-16. This is just a few oz concentrated tube that you dump into reservoir and then simply add water.

10) Bonus. (filters and other things):
a) Cabin air filter: 210-830-08-18 or search PelicanParts for Micronair 21651961.
Here's a very good DIY: Slk 230 cabin filter replacement
b) Engine air filter: 112-094-04-04 or get Mann C 3170/1-2
c) Fuel filter: 002-477-30-01 or Mann WK 720 or Mahle KL 82
See this DIY thread: R170 Fuel Filter replacement/change
d) Transmission fluid filter: 140-277-00-95.
e) Transmission pan gasket: 140-271-00-80
f) Transmission electrical connector (aka bushing): 203-540-02-53
g) Serpentine belt: 112-997-00-92
h) Steering damper: 124-463-04-32-64. Alternative: Stabilus 030 5CA, or Febi Bilsten 01261
Steering damper replacement/change
i) Another common thing to check is idler pulleys. There are 3 of them:
- Supercharger idler pulley - OEM: 120-200-04-70, INA part #: 531-0721-10. Yes MB uses INA brearring for this one.
- Idler and belt tensioning idler: 112-202-01-19. They both are the same so use the same part #.
See this DIY thread: How to replace idler pulleys on SLK32 AMG (R170)
Over the next few weeks I'll post some DIY's or add info, pictures to any existing posts we have. I have done all of the work. Just need to get my pictures and thoughts together. Overall I like how R170 is engineered. It's a really easy vehicle to work on. Just be careful with old fragile plastic things :sneaky:

And here's some photos :p
Font Art Drink Automotive exterior Advertising



This is supercharger oil kit I got off Ebay:
Liquid Drinkware Fluid Bottle Plastic bottle



Product Textile Font Paint Electric blue
 
#4 ·
Hi fellow members! My project was to replace all fluids in SLK 32AMG R170. I've done extensive research looking for proper liquids and part numbers and just want to share my findings with you so you can save yourself some time ;), especially since this car has a lot of fluids! I think most fluids will apply to other R170 models (except for engine oil and maybe supercharger oil). But here's the breakdown of what I used specifically for 32AMG model.

The data as of 2024:
1) Engine oil - Mobile 1 0W-40 or 5W-40. Capacity is ~8 quarts. The 0W-40 is for colder climates (most likely used in northern states), and 5W-40 is for warmer states. Here in Texas I opted for 0W-40 since I got a good deal on a 12qt box from local Walmart :)

2) Convertible Top Hydraulic oil - 000-989-91-03-09. Alternative is Febi Bilstein 02615. Haven't changed that yet on current car so not sure what the actual capacity is but there's a fill mark on the plastic reservoir attached to a roof pump. I think last time I did it on my SLK 230 when I took the pump out it was for sure less than quart since I still have left overs.

3) Supercharger oil - You can get overpriced MB 000-989-62-01-10 quart or get the latest 4th generation of Mobil Jet Oil 387. I used 3rd generation - Mobil Jet Oil 254. The second (older generation) is Mobil Jet Oil II and is probably hard to find now or may have expired shelf life. You can either get a metal quart can or buy a kit with syringe from Ebay (which is what I did). Capacity is ~150ml. Basically the car needs to be level and you fill up to the fill hole until it starts coming out. Similar to rear axle fluid - up to the fill hole.
See this DIY thread: How to - SLK32 AMG Supercharger oil change

4) Rear axle fluid (also known as hypoid gear oil). MB 001-989-33-03-09 for a quart. Alternative is Febi Bilstein 48785 (which is what I used). It's 75W-85. On my previous SLK 230 I used 'Mobil 1 104361-UNIT 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube' and this is I think what most people use in other passenger cars. Capacity - up to the fill hole until it starts coming out. ~1.3 quarts. It really took me a great deal of time and research to find correct OEM fluid specs. That 75W-85 is what my 2.7 Ecoboost F-150 uses as well. And honestly it looked and smelled the same to this Febi fluid. The color was identical too.
See this DIY thread: SLK R170 (32 AMG) Rear Differential Fluid change

5) Power Steering oil - Q-1-46-0002. Or Febi Bilstein 08972. I did a full flush and replaced my power steering reservoir (000-460-01-83) at the same time. You will need to get 2 quarts to do a full flush.

6) Transmission oil - 001-989-68-03-18. Also there's Febi Bilstein 29449, or Shell ATF 134. I used Shell ATF 134. I did a full flush (not just the pan drop) and used 18 quarts (to make sure I got rid of all of the old fluid out) :)

7) Brake fluid - 000-989-56-05-09-0109. Or Febi Bilstein 23930. One quart should be enough to do full flush.

8) Coolant - Zerex G-48. This one has blue color and is what I currently have and will use that to change it.

9) Windshield cleaning agent: 000-986-20-00-16. This is just a few oz concentrated tube that you dump into reservoir and then simply add water.

10) Bonus. (filters and other things):
a) Cabin air filter: 210-830-08-18 or search PelicanParts for Micronair 21651961.
Here's a very good DIY: Slk 230 cabin filter replacement
b) Engine air filter: 112-094-04-04 or get Mann C 3170/1-2
c) Fuel filter: 002-477-30-01 or Mann WK 720 or Mahle KL 82
See this DIY thread: R170 Fuel Filter replacement/change
d) Transmission fluid filter: 140-277-00-95.
e) Transmission pan gasket: 140-271-00-80
f) Transmission electrical connector (aka bushing): 203-540-02-53
g) Serpentine belt: 112-997-00-92
h) Steering damper: 124-463-04-32-64. Alternative: Stabilus 030 5CA, or Febi Bilsten 01261
Steering damper replacement/change
i) Another common thing to check is idler pulleys. There are 3 of them:
- Supercharger idler pulley - OEM: 120-200-04-70, INA part #: 531-0721-10. Yes MB uses INA brearring for this one.
- Idler and belt tensioning idler: 112-202-01-19. They both are the same so use the same part #.
See this DIY thread: How to replace idler pulleys on SLK32 AMG (R170)
Over the next few weeks I'll post some DIY's or add info, pictures to any existing posts we have. I have done all of the work. Just need to get my pictures and thoughts together. Overall I like how R170 is engineered. It's a really easy vehicle to work on. Just be careful with old fragile plastic things :sneaky:

And here's some photos :p
View attachment 638074


This is supercharger oil kit I got off Ebay:
View attachment 638077


View attachment 638078 View attachment 638079 View attachment 638080 View attachment 638081 View attachment 638082 View attachment 638083
Legend.
 
#7 ·
Excellent coverage of all items and processes and procedures. Lots of work there which will benefit quite a few members. I wonder how the requirements for fluids on my SLK 200k R171 Phase1 fit with the above!? be good to know if anyone has any thoughts?
 
Save
#5 ·
BTW, MB doesn't have a good OEM windshield cleaner solution for colder climates. They technically have "winterfit", but you'd end up needing almost $100 of the stuff to fill the reservoir. If your in a colder climate I would highly recommend the BMW 1 gallon jugs of windshield cleaner - part number is 83192361205. its dirt cheap like $6
 
#6 ·
In my two "winter" cars, I've never paid more than a buck for a gallon of -40o C fluid and never experienced an issue 🤷‍♂️
 
#8 · (Edited)
#10 ·
I started the WIS today and started digging.
In document AR46.30-P-0500A remove/install power steering pump I saw 4 lines 2 high pressure and 2 cooling lines - common for 4-5-6 cylinder engines (8 and 12 were there too, but different things). Plus info that it takes 1 liter of fluid (A 000 989 88 03). And was thinking the cooling lines are low pressure and less resistance, so why not there? Plus removing the belt and using ratchet to spin the pump with the return line going into jar, one can monitor what colour fluid gets into the jar. And make sure the expansion tank is kept topped-up.

You used the video method and 2 litres of Q-fluid? Any noises after?
 
#12 ·
I am guessing they need no oversea customers :)
Photograph Text White Screenshot Font

In its essence it needs to be approached as brake system. As is hydraulic system after all!
Thanks for the detailed answers!

I have clear hoses - different size and copper pipes plus jubilee clips so I will manage it.
Was supposed to get Liquid moly3100 on Monday and today after I left, I got a text DHL will deliver it today…and another text at lunch, they couldn’t as no one home…what-a-surprise! So yeah Monday will see what will see.

Thanks again, enjoy your weekend!
 
#13 ·
Oops, I didn't pay attention to your location :)
Here's a picture of a hose. Btw, I probably wouldn't recommend using clear hose as a permanent replacement for that small return line. Different material, thickness, oily fluid, temperature resistance, etc. Maybe stop by your local auto parts store and ask them for 3/8 inch power steering return hose. I'm sure it's a common item. You only need like 1 foot. They don't make the OEM one any more, at least here in the US. But a hose is a hose hehe. They're made to be in the engine bay and withstand high temperatures and not breakdown due to steering fluid. (Just don't let it touch the engine).
Synthetic rubber Hose Carbon fibers

Here's a picture of the OEM one:
Pipe Hose Fuel line Engine
 
#14 · (Edited)
Not an issue at all!
I addressed the clear - food industry approved hoses - as a tool to extend the lines to a jar only.

So DHL did it :)
Cylinder Label Logo Bottle Nail
Bottle Liquid Label Cylinder Plastic bottle

Why would 1 cover the manufacturer label with same info that is difficult to scan is beyond me!

“Dexron || D” oil..not sure if regular or special as the “D“ is a surprise for me, seen plenty of info with Dexron || only, anyway will leave it like that for the moment.

On the subject, might be a bit too much, but on the subject for sure, this link got me thinking:

Again it is selection for 1998-230K, EU/UK specs and might be not like yours!
Machine Power tool Tool

#5 is …with pitman arm!
And for the right hand steering:
Diagram Technical drawing Line art Schematic

Very short (vehicle width) cooling line.

Quick search of the part number gives more pictures here:

And that looks like pitman arm moving mechanical rack. Not like others (never checked before today) hydraulic racks that actually have lines going in and out of the rack plus leaking all over after oil change, because the specs are not followed (the dexron|| thing above).

I think it is time to take a look under the hood ;) It could be that the 500ml would be plenty for the “special” 96-00 assembly…

Yours however is a different parts number:


And the lines look same “short length“… Yeah lost in translation is a nice movie ah?

On the preps foot, I think I have all I need and when the rain stops, will take a look under the hood to make sure I see what is pointed in the documents, although they are not matching.
 
#15 · (Edited)
@JaysonM
I am willing to add some info not to hijack your HOW to!
If you want to separate it I am OK, drop me PM and will do!
So the sun was up and - not so warm but…manageable, with 2 layers of each - trousers, tops, hoodie…

I was willing to do it “smart” not hard.
Handheld vacuum-pump attached to the return line after (I was thinking, but was wrong) taking 200ml of the reservoir. Unplugging the hose = mess! I was prepared and had old T-shirt to collect that mess.
So vacuum pump in the return hose and “clamped” with the on board clamp, total I pulled was about 500ml. As the wheels were off ground I was pushing (with my knees) the left wheel in and out, left and right, end to end, however you wanna call it! But it really did not change a thing!

Now that is something I was willing to do easier and faster, however DaDude was parked on the street and the drivers’ side was inclined, so the power steering reservoir was on Higher point (UK steering right), and because of that I raised the front so the window (of the house) was horizontal when looked from the front left corner of the car. Did not put lever on the radiator, but betting my neck it was very very close to horizontal front axle.

So obviously the total I could take out was 500ml, with loss with hoses with whatever you wanna name it.

I opened the liqui-molly and it was clear brown - not green. This is probably 96-00 thing, not 00-04 thing.
Electrical cable Pipe Hose Wire Automotive Fuel System
Windscreen wiper
Machine Engine Electric battery Automotive Care
Gadget Electrical cable


I don’t think the pictures need explanations, but I used the pump and pull CLEAN ( as in the hose ) and CLEAR fluid over the return line.

Steering wheel being unlocked I pushed them wheels left to right about 100 times today in extracting and in filling steps, using the FL wheel plus another 15-20 times using the steering wheel, with the engine running after I started it and warmed it up.

The thing I was not able to recall from before was the end position noise.
Like you steer full end(left for example) and release - just the bump - that’s it. Holding the steering after it reaches the end position, NoW I hear the noise I used to hear on other cars, but as I said did not remember this sound before. Yes I have no real life reasons to HOLD in end left/right, but …one of them things.

And no I had no problems with the steering, just I have DaDude since Aug ‘19 and I knew it was old.
 
#17 ·
@BaD_81
Don't think members can move them.
But for decent, yet cheap, biccies our admin team can.
I can cut/paste, copy and edit ;)
This doesn’t make you useless, just if I can do that, while I am doing it, you can do somethings that other users can’t!
 
#19 ·
NaH MYK, just one of them things… we are here because we need(-ed) help.
So why being burned in the process?
Plus in the process we learn while others shared, so why not share and let others learn?
Very simple if you ask me mate!
 
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