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New New Dashboard headlight Vacuum Dial adjuster

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2.5K views 71 replies 5 participants last post by  BaD_81  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone could be so kind as to help. I am attempting to fix my 1998 SLK 230r170 Kompressor vacumm headlight adjustment system.

I need a new headlight adjuster dashboard dial as I have accidentally snapped a part off . Seems like the product code is 020798. Can anyone recommend where I can get one from. I am in the UK.

Plastic Wire



Electrical cable Wire Heat-shrink tubing


Thanks in advance, any help MUCH appreciated.

Carl :)
 
#3 ·
Hi all,

I hope everyone is having a good day.

Just wondering if anyone could be so kind as to help. I know there is a fair amount of info on the forum but I can’t find what I am specifically looking for.

I am attempting to fix my 1998 SLK 230 r170 Kompressor vacuum headlight adjustment system.

Now I have read a few posts on here so decided to try and check the pipes.

The Lilac coloured pipe is connected to both headlights and as far as I can see, all seems ok in the engine compartment.

As per a post on SLK World, I thought I’d see if there was any air being sucked or pushed through the pipes going to the switch.

I WILL POINT OUT – Trying to get the darker purple coloured pipe off I accidentally snapped off the plastic pipe attached to the Lilac pipe. (I saw the part fly off but I have a gravel drive and it’s gone forever.. LOL)

Anyway, to get to the point.

One
I am just wondering if anyone can tell me where the actually pump is. Basically where does this darker purple pipe go to..?

Two
I turned on the engine and checked for either a sucking or blowing from the pipes and could hear / feel nothing.

I did suck on the dial pipe and that seemed to work although there wasn't much difference between the 3 settings. (blowing through the dial mechanism didn't work)

Three
I’ll need a new headlight adjuster dashboard dial. Seems like the product code is 020798. Can anyone recommend where I can get one from. I am in the UK. (I might actually also try and just fabricate a fix)

(I have added a post to the forum about New Old Parts about the dashboard dial so will see if anything comes up in that post)

Any help or advice is genuinely GREATLY appreciated.

I am not a mechanic but when younger I would carry out lots of repairs on my cars, and am enjoying the challenge of fixing my SLK up now I have a bit more time on my hands.

Cheers

Carl. 😊

Electrical cable Wire Electrical wiring



Engine Hood Luxury vehicle Mercedes-Benz Performance car



Electrical cable Wire Heat-shrink tubing



Plastic Wire
 
#6 ·
Look up part numbers by vin or note what is on your part
www.slkworld.com

LINKS to Parts, Assemblies, Technical Data, Locations of...

I could not face the traffic this Holiday Weekend - So what to do ?? I've just put together a Small Web Site (2 Pages)with links on them to SLK R170,R171 & R172 Parts, Assemblies, Technical Data and the Locations of Parts. Also there is a Large listing of ODBII Fault Codes (Circa 3000) and a...
www.slkworld.com www.slkworld.com
 
#7 · (Edited)
#8 ·
Cheers for the reply. Yes you are right. I messed up trying to get the hose off. If I can't get a replacement I'll fabricate a fix and then use your advice reference the silicone hosing.

Thanks again.
 
#9 ·
BTW, I don't know how the hoses run on the RHD cars. LHD the manifold hose runs under the battery tray. Mine was broken there and the trat had to come out. Good thing too seeing how rusty it was.

And that part number doesn't seem right? It will be printed on the component.
 
#16 ·
Yep, this is what I am thinking. I'm really annoyed I broke it. And the fact that the broken part flew off into a world o gravel never to be seen again. I'm going to have a look now in the garage and see what I can find.

Thanks for your help, much appreciated.
 
#12 ·
#19 ·
What Mark pointed out!
A large WD40 can with “flexible” straw did the job on the line under the battery.
as you going to have plastic inside the plastic (you have kept the broken piece right?) superglue and soda gives SOLID results. And because the re-routing will take twists and turn and push, make sure you do all before you glue it!
If the roller provides UP - Down based on engine vacuum and gravity, I would say one is the entry - vacuum, The other is the exit - headlights.
If there is a space inside the plastic roller casing, stick that piece of straw as far as you can without touching …whatever is inside and “slide” the broken piece over. When head to head (broken and case) drop superglue and soda. And again and again. Some sandpaper or sharp utility knife…to smooth the edges.
You are most likely mistaken:
Engine

Location is important:
 
#24 ·
Yeah you are right about my being mistaken ref that pump at the front of the engine.

Ref the broken bit, it’s lost in my gravel drive. Probably just see it one day oin about 6 months just sitting there.. LOL

Somone on this forum sent me a link to a second-hand one on ebay £10 so have bought that as they seem quite rare. It’ll probably be knackered but if it is I could maybe use the housing.

Thanks for taking the time to post a message. 😊
 
#20 ·
I suspect that the controller may be part of the vent and as such might well not have a separate part number. EPC would solve the riddle if anyone has the same issue in the future. That sort if thing does happen as I found out fruitlessly searching for a cam cover part.
 
#23 ·
EPC describes it as a nozzle ....the clip in part is not shown separately. I used my VIN .. it's a LHD so the part number won't help. But it will be on the assembly removed by the OP.
 
#31 ·
Yeah. It'll just appear in a few months. If this 'replacement' unit doesn't work, I'm going to buy one of those pipe link kits and just use one of the pipes and fix it to my broken unit and seal it and put that back on.

I am sure it'll all work out just fine. :rolleyes:
 
#29 ·
@Rofa It seems to be obsolete #23

SLK 230/R170 - Headlight Adjustment Failure

Thanks Malcolm. I think I now have it sussed. Having changed the valve (which was duff) I re-inspected both headlamp connections, the pipes and so on and then noticed 'hissing' at the adjuster switch in the dash. Took the switch out - still connected to the pipes - and yes, that's where the leak...
forums.mercedesclub.org.uk
 
#36 ·
Well, got the replacement headlight vacuum dial thing, fitted it and still doesn't work so I guess the issue is somewhere else, unless the one I bought is faulty. I think I'll just give up now for a bit.

I have an MOT soon and it'll probably pass.

Thanks for all your assistance, much appreciated. 👌
 
#38 ·
Hi there, how exactly would I test this device..? I did blow and also 'suck' the pipes so I could see if there was flow.. Also, there are only two connectors and put them on as they were on the original and that did work up until about 12 months ago...

How would you test the device to see if it was working or not...?

Cheers :)
 
#41 ·
Hi there, thanks for the reply.

I did see your posts and followed those instructions. Engine off or on gives the same result. With engine off I certainly can’t hear any air hissing etc.

If as M4rCu5 mentioned ‘Connector #35 has been known to break before now’ I might look at giving that a go.

The dial #60 seems fine, although I don’t understand where you said “ Top and Bottom connectors you need not middle…” because there are only two connectors..

Anyway, maybe #35 could be the next port of call… LOL
 
#42 ·
In the other post that I shared the person mentioned new PN and that he got 3 connectors on the "roller".
So it was in my mind if you got 3 connector "roller" to have used top and bottom not middle and top, middle and bottom.
I have not seen what you received and probably just mixed them, sorry for not clarifying in depth and causing disturbance in the force!

Without engine running you can use handheld vacuum pump. It will be visual and audible. I am not sure what method is better, but is an option!
 
#45 ·
Quick video I have just filmed. I was looking for connector #35, but seems like the lilac pipe goes from the drivers (right) headlight, across the front behind the grill, to the passenger (left) headlight and then up and under the battery. I did check under the battery the other day and all seems ok.

So the layout of my headlight vacuum pipework doesn't look like the version in this thread. Maybe the 1998 version is different. Cheers :)

 
#46 ·
Hello all again, I have had a look for the vacuum pipe coming out of the back of the engine from the manifold, do you guys think this is it...? Doesn't appear to have come off...

Pipe Fuel line



Electrical cable Pipe Carbon fibers Wire Fuel line
 
#47 ·
The pipes/hoses from right to left to under battery are like mine 1998. And the same layout under the TB so they look well - as mine did, but my battery got out and the grey one from the TB to the vacuum "accumulator" behind the glovebox was slightly pulled - so I found my leak somewhere under the black apparatus box.
Try unhooking the grey one

And pushing you lungs out into it, you might find-hear it!
 
#48 ·
Ok great, sounds like something to try at least. So on that image you mean look for something between that blue connector and somewhere further up the pipe..? You found your issue in the engine compartment, you didn't have to look behind the glove box inside the car...?

I'll have a look and see what I can do.

Cheers
 
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