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Multifunction switch (stalk) repair R170 1998

52 views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  ForaFrank  
#1 ·
I've had my 1998 SLK230 for 3 years now, (123k km when bought) and I've loved the driving experience and solving problems along the way.
Recently a problem developed with my indicators over a period of a few weeks. First, when indicating “right” the flash rate started playing up, sometimes extra fast, then extra slow, then eventually no flash at all.
I followed the trouble-shooting threads on this forum and eliminated the globes (hazard flashers all OK) and the control module (cleaned the relay contacts - Photo 1).

Electronic component Electronics Circuit Component Computer hardware Wire


I narrowed it down to the stalk itself. There are many threads on removing the stalk to replace it, but I couldn’t find one on how to dismantle and repair it, so here is what happened:

REMOVING THE STALK AND SWITCH
1 Disconnect battery to discharge airbag function - lots of posts on these first few steps.
2 Unplug connectors from under dash (plastic panel has to be removed to gain access - it’s a pain, especially the hood/bonnet mechanism lever).
There are 4 connectors (airbag, horn, cruise control and multi-function) all clipped into a small plastic frame and the loom sections are cable-tied. Photo 2.

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3 Use a long T30 Torx tool to undo 2 x screws from back of the steering wheel - note screws are “captive” and can’t be fully removed.
4 Disconnect 2 x horn connectors and centre airbag connector. Put AB aside somewhere safe.
5 Remove steering wheel using a 10mm hex key - breaker bar required, 2 person job - 1 to hold the steering wheel.
6 Remove “clock spring” (steering position sensor) which is a black plastic can, I taped mine together to prevent it coming apart and placed it on top of the dash. Photo 3.

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7 Remove the stalk from steering column - held with 3 x Philips screws (also holds cruise control stalk). Photo 4. Feed disconnected cables up through steering column.

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DISMANTLING THE STALK SWITCH

8 Drill out small brass rivets.
9 Carefully separate the 2 halves (plastic and die cast). Inside there are 2 small brass “rockers” - Photos 5 and 6. One connects the centre “power” terminal to either L or R side indicator, and another that connects power to Hi or Lo beam and headlight flash.

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Household hardware Brass


10 The terminals on mine were all corroded and pitted - easily cleaned with emery paper then washed with terminal cleaner spray. Photo 7.

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11 I lubricated the moving/sliding parts with silicon grease. Re-assemble the stalk, using small self-tapping screws instead of rivets, from the plastic side into the die cast metal. Photo 8.

Screw Fastener Household hardware Brass Nut


Reverse the procedure to re-assemble the lot.

EUREKA - both indicators and hi/lo beam work fine - even the headlight flasher works, first time since I’ve owned the car!
 
#2 ·
Hey @paul230, this is an incredible and detailed write-up on the stalk repair—thanks for sharing! It's really impressive that you drilled out the rivets to get inside and clean those corroded contacts. What made you decide to attempt the repair yourself instead of just swapping in a new part? I’m sure others considering this fix would find your reasoning helpful
 
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#3 ·
Hi @ForaFrank thanks for your comments.
There’s a couple of reasons for attempting the repair myself rather than buying a replacement.
Firstly the satisfaction I get from DIY! It’s such a buzz to diagnose a problem and figure out a solution - good for my old brain!
Secondly R170 parts are pretty hard to find here in Oz. I can get them online and shipped from the US or Europe but they are not cheap. Then there is the risk that a used part won’t be any better than my own. But this is my “fall back” option - should my repair fail, then I’ll look for a used part! 😊
Cheers @paul230
 
#4 ·
@paul230 Thanks for sharing that insight. The satisfaction of solving the puzzle yourself is a powerful motivator, and certainly one many here can appreciate. It’s one thing to own the car, and another to truly understand it.

Your second point about parts availability really hits home and highlights a common challenge for enthusiasts everywhere. The risk of a used part not being any better is a very real one; it's like paying to swap one mystery for another. Your pragmatic 'repair first' approach, combined with the detailed guide you provided, is a fantastic resource for others who find themselves in the same boat.
 
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