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Where can I get this PCV Valve (A1110100091)?

5.3K views 46 replies 9 participants last post by  Slk-razy  
#1 ·
Hello
I need help in locating a supplier for a PCV Valve for my 1997 R170 SLK230.

Part Number :
A 111 010 00 91


I have attached a picture of the part. Thanks in advance.
 

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#8 ·
#10 ·
I have been looking for that type of PCV valve as well, Sphinx. If it is not working properly. It is then that one can get CO emission issues, and damage to the engine. Did you measure increased CO emissions too?
Apparently, new and original parts and accessories for an SLK r170 2 liter compressor are not produced anymore in Germany. I guess I am stuck with second hand parts? Or PCV valves from other car types which do their job as well?
Has anybody experience with this issue?
Roy
 
#14 ·
I’d say get the straight pcv valve and modify it to use the T section, dremil cut and remove reinstall. what ever, the Mercedes black valve cover sealant. I use it for leaks on Ironhead Harley Chopper. It works.
 
#18 ·
Things are like usual, You?

I am searching for that valve as info about it

And can not find it (selection for my vehicle engine) and I know the documents are covering more than just the specific year…so can’t make different in diameter, height…probably, the universal will do the job, just hit an miss till you find the right one I guess!
 
#19 ·
Trying to crush it real estate, New England tough market, data,data,data.. I’m looking on. This side of the pond. Will check and update
Great hearing from you, any cookouts? 😂👏
 
#24 ·
#25 ·
And few pics - feeling lazy to upload video, plus is upside down...
So @Slk-razy could be very much on the point:
Automotive Fuel System Engine Synthetic rubber Pipe
Automotive Fuel System Engine Pipe Synthetic rubber Nut
them 2 "hoses" are having space over and a single "port" valve can be worked on to achieve 2 of them connected with a T-piece or...whatever needed.
So the right steps if needed should be cut the hose going in the base of the oil filter, check the size, find a valve with size as close as possible and apply the appropriate steps to restore them connections.
Not saying is easy as I couldn't reach it and it sounds as PITA to take intake guts off the way. But is clear now (as it was not before) at least for me!
 
#26 ·
Thanks for all the info guys. My apologies for not responding sooner. I only just realised that my initial post was moved.
1. Someone asked where did I get that part number? I got that from the Pelican parts listing based on the part I have on my car.
2. I came across a ‘Fuelmiser’ PCV vale that has a single opening at the top and was wondering if I could attach a ‘T’ junction to the single outlet, would this work?

Thanks
 
#44 ·
Sadly after battery taken off charged overnight and set back in, keeps them less fluctuating, but still there. After long 2 hours drive all kind of roads and speeds, still there. And I have not got a clue what to…
One utuber explained in some general engine noise video if you hear taping noise and small almost insensible fluctuations, we talking lifters, head gasket and fingers crossed only wash-off and re-fit (hydraulic lifters) as they have the unknown type of oil “blocking” the correct actions…I have not got a guts to do that, can not say it is or not the cure, but opening the engine by any means (not plastic screws and caps) that require bolts, torque wrenching, etc. compared to the slight shakes….I will take the shakes!
 
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