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Camshaft hall effect sensor error

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299 views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  Gtatf  
#1 ·
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Does anyone know what can be the reason of this error?Mechanic told me to replace the sensor so i bought new one from Hella (6PU 009 121-071) I’m replacing it right now. There is current on sensor cable 11,80V and 12,20V I don’t know which one is on which (there is red-blue and yellow-white cables inside black tube).
Can this error occur if something is wrong with timing chain or parts near it or anything else?
Is it bad if there is engine oil on sensor?
I can’t get any measurements with multimeter - ohm or continuity test from old and new sensor. It should have 130ohm
 
#2 ·
Breaking down the questions you raise:
  • Does anyone know what can be the reason of this error? - I don't think we have enough information at this point apart from error code P0341
  • Can this error occur if something is wrong with timing chain or parts near it or anything else? - Depends if there are other error codes showing up
  • Is it bad if there is engine oil on sensor? - In my mind no, unless the oil leaks past the engine seals. The sensor (Hall Effect) is magnetic, so it just needs a magnet to pass close by on the camshaft
  • I can’t get any measurements with multimeter - ohm or continuity test from old and new sensor. It should have 130ohm - My understanding is that any meaningful measurements should be made with an oscilloscope, as the computer is expecting pulses from the sensor as the magnet passes the sensor.
If you search for the P0341 error code you get:

Google said:
The P0341 trouble code on a Mercedes SLK (R170) points to a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor (often called the Hall sensor). It means the engine computer is receiving an inconsistent or incorrect signal from the sensor regarding the position of the camshaft.

Common Causes
  • Failing Sensor: The sensor itself often fails internally, especially when it gets hot (heat-soak).
  • Oil Leaks: Oil can leak past the engine seals and contaminate the sensor plug, causing a bad signal.
  • Damaged Wiring: Broken, melted, or corroded wires between the sensor and the engine computer.
  • Timing Chain Stretch: A worn-out timing chain can throw off the mechanical timing of the engine.
Click to expand...
Since you've replaced the sensor, and the fault has not gone away, perhaps check the wiring from the sensor for oil contamination. That's about all the help I can give here.
 
#3 ·
I think it’s gone away. I replaced it and kompressor is spinning at about 2k rpm on idle, before it was like 2,5k or even above 3k rpm that kompressor started spinning. It was lacking power like I could feel when giving more throttle that it slowed down a little, felt like kompressor wasn’t spinning that much, but now I made about 30km and I could feel power through all the way, even when I was on 5th gear at 1k rpm and started accelerating it was just going. So yeah I think it’s all good for now. Still, I have oil leak from sensor magnet and some other places but that’s a fix for another time.
 
#5 ·
You must install oil stop leads (unsure what the English notion is) for the camshaft adjuster solenoid (what you called magnet sensor) before the oil is reaching your ECU. This is a known issue.

EDIT: you probably meant your oily camshaft position sensor. That's uncritical. Check the camshaft adjuster wires in front of the engine for oil leaks. That's critical.
 
#7 ·
You mean these two pins about 3-4mm in radius? Yeah I’ve heard about it. I saw oil on them and cleaned it with spray for PSBs, electronics etc. I watched video about this part and it seems like it’s not hard to fix this leak. I’ll buy things I need and seal it soon probably.

@savcom I know I know I will do it soon.


Here he showed how to do it.
 
#6 ·
owns 2002 Mercedes-Benz SLK320
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#8 ·
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It’s a long leak I assume. You can’t see it well because I didn’t took off plastic cover - it’s past 1am and I didn’t what to fight with it to put it on 😄. Right above the belt you can see black spot - that’s oil from cam magnet, looks kinda old. So yeah I’m going to fix it.
 
#12 ·
I drive a pre facelift, i just installed a new one and check once a month for any buildup.
luckily there is no leak anymore but i still wipe it down just as routine.
 
#14 ·
I think that the difference between the plugs on the pre and post is that the pins on the pre are moulded into the plastic body so leakage past the pins and into the loom is difficult. I suspect the posties have push in pins but it's pure speculation since I've never seen one. I did however strip the insulation off the wires on mine, soldered them solid and taped them up. Overkill I suspect.
 
#15 ·
I only know of cars that were modified. And they didn't fail so far.

However, this reminds me of Paul Watzlawick's The Pursuit Of Unhappiness:

A man would clap his hands every ten seconds. When asked about this strange behavior, the man explained that it was to scare away the elephants. “Elephants? But there aren’t any elephants here!” To which he replied: “Exactly.”

Maybe the elephant is the oil in the ECU and the clapping is the oil stop cable :D
 
#16 · (Edited)
Stromboli said:
I only know of cars that were modified. And they didn't fail so far.


A man would clap his hands every ten seconds. When asked about this strange behavior, the man explained that it was to scare away the elephants. “Elephants? But there aren’t any elephants here!” To which he replied: “Exactly.”

Maybe the elephant is the oil in the ECU and the clapping is the oil stop cable :D
Click to expand...
Hahah yeah ain’t gonna lie man that’s deep
 
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