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Average daily temp is under 10°C not the time yet!
In the sunny days - barely enough sun to wash a car...last week was the other car's time, as it has antenna on top and can't go for automated ones. The 'hand washers' are leaving so much.....after them that is absurd (for about 25 min inside out asking 15-20£) they are all day out, I get that, weather and so, but the results are unacceptable. And yes with vacuuming on the street it took me alone 1.5H cleaning and setting the equipment away takes time too, but...it is clean after!
So will wait for better days do fire the BBq up!
Smart thinking! I wash my truck in the rain, cook barbecue w liquid smoke on food in the oven winter, lol! My SLK under cover for the winter, heated garage. Very Lucky! I’m scouting for the part in US! Glad I’m back! Pic Nahant Ma looking to Hull ( the cape)
Blue Horizon Cloud Rock Coast
 
And few pics - feeling lazy to upload video, plus is upside down...
So @Slk-razy could be very much on the point:
Automotive Fuel System Engine Synthetic rubber Pipe
Automotive Fuel System Engine Pipe Synthetic rubber Nut
them 2 "hoses" are having space over and a single "port" valve can be worked on to achieve 2 of them connected with a T-piece or...whatever needed.
So the right steps if needed should be cut the hose going in the base of the oil filter, check the size, find a valve with size as close as possible and apply the appropriate steps to restore them connections.
Not saying is easy as I couldn't reach it and it sounds as PITA to take intake guts off the way. But is clear now (as it was not before) at least for me!
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Thanks for all the info guys. My apologies for not responding sooner. I only just realised that my initial post was moved.
1. Someone asked where did I get that part number? I got that from the Pelican parts listing based on the part I have on my car.
2. I came across a ‘Fuelmiser’ PCV vale that has a single opening at the top and was wondering if I could attach a ‘T’ junction to the single outlet, would this work?

Thanks
 
I am not certain as I have not found analogues and…however the common idea is if it does the job we call it working.
As a suggestion only, use the T junction as close to the PCV as you can.
 
And few pics - feeling lazy to upload video, plus is upside down...
So @Slk-razy could be very much on the point:
View attachment 650975 View attachment 650976 them 2 "hoses" are having space over and a single "port" valve can be worked on to achieve 2 of them connected with a T-piece or...whatever needed.
So the right steps if needed should be cut the hose going in the base of the oil filter, check the size, find a valve with size as close as possible and apply the appropriate steps to restore them connections.
Not saying is easy as I couldn't reach it and it sounds as PITA to take intake guts off the way. But is clear now (as it was not before) at least for me!
Where there’s a will, there’s a way… especially when the part is obsolete!
 
I love how good everything looks and you’re doing a GREAT JOB Bad 81!
I am trying for sure. The only minus is, I still feel them shakes! Like @The Sphynx mentioned.

So the left side looking at the engine from the radiator has them hoses renewed August-September 24. Bypass, supercharger, oil separator - before MAF - call them working as new tight, operational…
Right side - after MAF - throttle (with 2 vacuum lines), intake, with the PCV cleaned and new tight hoses, new intake Elring rubbers (originals good as NEW) right… still them low rpm shakes.

The only thing I have seen recently is oil leak on the oil level sensor, probably the O-ring of that OilLevel sensor.

And I am out of ideas…

On the PCV foot, them 2 small brass…things were well stuck - like the dark brownxxxxxxxxx suggested and using clear hose, shell 99+ whatever higher grade fuel they have, cleared it until the following experiment was successful. The small 10-15” hose was attached under (where the hose for the PCV valve should be) and filled with petrol, then the loose end was raised above the brass check valve level and a fountain of brown xxxxxxx and petrol leaked out! Multiple times until clear fuel was seen.
Done on both sides 12 and 34 cylinders. So the suggestion of “unmonitored“ intake air…is kinda I really mean it unreasonable.
The PCV valve itself had been soaked, pressure washed, soaked, shaked….whatever you name it multiple times until clear petrol and/or brake cleaner leaked out both ways.

I am considering propane can and long hose as a reach-in tool under the throttle body, as the assembly is metal/alloy body getting into plastic intake relying on o-ring. Age related marking, cracks, etc…were not seen, but still, open box phenomenon ( it looks well and nothing to be called disturbing) vs assembled and still xxxxxxx results.

Any next step on your end?
 
Dunno about the M111 but that's a sump off job for the M112 🤷‍♂️ 🙃
If the selection is not off, This:
is way different than this:
and I am still”stuck” with the oil drain bolt that I couldn’t undo 5+ years ago…
Heating tools are ready, but from the recent experience ( getting too much off topic here ) more than 3 people asked if I can take a look at their…(mg, focus, Toyota..) the heating and laying on cold ground will wait a bit as it would be combined with oil change.
May be not a bad idea to at least buy a new bolt for the sump ah?
 
That's the one, Sensor and O-Ring is bolted on from inside the sump on the M112 - PITA job but it looks like you dodged a bullet on the M111 ..

MB vacuum the oil out via the dipstick tube and I've got a nice extractor pump to do just that if you wanna go that way .. I do get the pros and cons

Back on topic - PCV Valve! 🙃
 
Dunno about the M111 but that's a sump off job for the M112 🤷‍♂️ 🙃
Sunoco 96 Octane! (we have it a state over)
Sensors, bent blocked lines or fuel filter..
Intake gaskets allowing air in. Possible to spray outside intake manifold with pb rust buster or something to make observations of vacuum?
Being an old Chevy Guy, when I had a stumble I’d turn engine on cold start, quickly observe stumble, then spray intake with start fluid. If idle smoothed out, gasket leak on intake. Mercedes are not so easy. 🤫
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I have been looking for that type of PCV valve as well, Sphinx. If it is not working properly. It is then that one can get CO emission issues, and damage to the engine. Did you measure increased CO emissions too?
Apparently, new and original parts and accessories for an SLK r170 2 liter compressor are not produced anymore in Germany. I guess I am stuck with second hand parts? Or PCV valves from other car types which do their job as well?
Has anybody experience with this issue?
Roy
No I didn’t measure CO emissions. The symptoms I observed was consistent with a vacuum leak. The original PCV was jammed and not functioning. I have used the Corvette PCV and it is working just fine.
 
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