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I suspect that the controller may be part of the vent and as such might well not have a separate part number. EPC would solve the riddle if anyone has the same issue in the future. That sort if thing does happen as I found out fruitlessly searching for a cam cover part.
They clip in and out Rolf, I've got a couple of spare surrounds but no spare dial wheel thingummy, that was a nice find at £10 (y)
 
EPC describes it as a nozzle ....the clip in part is not shown separately. I used my VIN .. it's a LHD so the part number won't help. But it will be on the assembly removed by the OP.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
What Mark pointed out!
A large WD40 can with “flexible” straw did the job on the line under the battery.
as you going to have plastic inside the plastic (you have kept the broken piece right?) superglue and soda gives SOLID results. And because the re-routing will take twists and turn and push, make sure you do all before you glue it!
If the roller provides UP - Down based on engine vacuum and gravity, I would say one is the entry - vacuum, The other is the exit - headlights.
If there is a space inside the plastic roller casing, stick that piece of straw as far as you can without touching …whatever is inside and “slide” the broken piece over. When head to head (broken and case) drop superglue and soda. And again and again. Some sandpaper or sharp utility knife…to smooth the edges.
You are most likely mistaken:
View attachment 653336
Location is important:
Yeah you are right about my being mistaken ref that pump at the front of the engine.

Ref the broken bit, it’s lost in my gravel drive. Probably just see it one day oin about 6 months just sitting there.. LOL

Somone on this forum sent me a link to a second-hand one on ebay £10 so have bought that as they seem quite rare. It’ll probably be knackered but if it is I could maybe use the housing.

Thanks for taking the time to post a message. 😊
 
Ref the broken bit, it’s lost in my gravel drive. Probably just see it one day oin about 6 months just sitting there.. LOL
Hahah yes you will!

I would say part number is universal, but….


edit
Orange Logo Screenshot

extra special, but with no picture…you never know!
 
would say part number is universal, but
Certainly sounds as if that could be the part, but if so it will be on the switch...so if the OP would have a peek and see if there is a number starting with an A together with a little Mercedes logo........
 
@Rofa It seems to be obsolete #23
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Hahah yes you will!

I would say part number is universal, but….


edit
View attachment 653337
extra special, but with no picture…you never know!
Thanks for your reply. I have a second-hand one coming now so will see if that fixes the issue.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Sit by gravel
Have coffee
Don’t look for it

And there it is!
Yeah. It'll just appear in a few months. If this 'replacement' unit doesn't work, I'm going to buy one of those pipe link kits and just use one of the pipes and fix it to my broken unit and seal it and put that back on.

I am sure it'll all work out just fine. :rolleyes:
 
I've got a couple of spare surrounds but no spare dial wheel thingummy..
Oh hang on .. :D

Thanks for your reply. I have a second-hand one coming now so will see if that fixes the issue.
It will - unless you break that one as well.

IF you don't have the CF vent/switch surround as per incoming item, you just unclip and transfer, pre and post use the same wheelymabob AFAIK

Carbon fibers Electronics


Image


Carbon fibers Wire Electronics Steering wheel Electrical cable


No p/n on the wheelymabob

BTW. I wouldn't even try to remove those pipes cos those male parts may well snap off :D :p should yours arrive with with the pipes cut as mine are above^ use silicone vac pipe to affect a joint
Electrical cable Wire Electrical wiring Technology Electrical Supply
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Sit by gravel
Have coffee
Don’t look for it

And there it is!
Check this.... Just stopped by my back door earlier and saw something and there it was...

I'll still try this second hand one I have coming as hopefully that'll fix the issue but I am chuffed to find this thing... 👌

Parasitism
 
Serious hoses you got there Mark, do they glow in the dark? 😁
:D

I've got some of this, some of that and a wee bit of the other :p I'll have to measure the blue to confirm the size but it happens to be a perfect fit, making it an ideal joining/bridging sleeve (y)

Wire Plastic Electrical cable
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Well, got the replacement headlight vacuum dial thing, fitted it and still doesn't work so I guess the issue is somewhere else, unless the one I bought is faulty. I think I'll just give up now for a bit.

I have an MOT soon and it'll probably pass.

Thanks for all your assistance, much appreciated. 👌
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Have you tested the “new” one before fitting it?
Someone mentioned is Top and Bottom connectors you need not middle and…

Hi there, how exactly would I test this device..? I did blow and also 'suck' the pipes so I could see if there was flow.. Also, there are only two connectors and put them on as they were on the original and that did work up until about 12 months ago...

How would you test the device to see if it was working or not...?

Cheers :)
 
As explained on the link I shared earlier:
Text White Screenshot Number Font
Text White Screenshot Number Font

And the "testing" or working conditions are visible only with engine running - have you by any chance tried it on without starting the engine?
 
Worth checking all lines but that Connector #35 has been known to break before now = no vacuum at the headlights

Diagram Technical drawing Schematic


AFAICR you gotta remove the front grille to gain access to it but I could be wrong on that score 🤷‍♂️

EDIT:
Somewhere near the RH h/light..
Vacuum headlight adjuster | Mercedes SLK World
 
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